Difference between revisions of "Fustanella"

From Phantis
Jump to navigation Jump to search
m
 
(4 intermediate revisions by 2 users not shown)
Line 1: Line 1:
 
[[Image:TRADITIONAL_GREEK_FOUSTANELLES.JPG|thumb|400px|Greek Fustanelles - (Right) - the Makedonomahi, which is from [[Macedonia]], the northernmost region of Greece.  
 
[[Image:TRADITIONAL_GREEK_FOUSTANELLES.JPG|thumb|400px|Greek Fustanelles - (Right) - the Makedonomahi, which is from [[Macedonia]], the northernmost region of Greece.  
 
(Left) - The Fustanella (Tsolias) Prevailed in the urban centers of Moreas ([[Peloponnese]]) and Roumeli (Central [[Greece]]). ]]
 
(Left) - The Fustanella (Tsolias) Prevailed in the urban centers of Moreas ([[Peloponnese]]) and Roumeli (Central [[Greece]]). ]]
−
'''Fustanella''' (for spelling in various languages, see [[#Name in various languages|chart below]]) is a kilt-like garment worn by men in the Balkans until the 19th century and is frequently identified with the elite Greek ceremonial unit of Presidential Guard, the [[Evzones]].
+
'''Fustanella''' (for spelling in various languages, see [[#Name in various languages|chart below]]) is a traditional skirt-like garment worn by men in the Balkans. In modern times, the fustanella is part of traditional Albanian and Greeks dresses, worn mainly by ceremonial Greek military units and Albanian folk dancers.  
  
−
== Etymology ==
+
==History==
−
The ultimate derivation is from the Italian ''fustagno'', referring to the fustian fabric of the early kilts. This in turn derives from Medieval Latin ''fūstāneum'', perhaps a diminutive form of ''fustis'', "wooden baton"; though the word may also derive from Fostat, a suburb of Cairo where cloth was manufactured.
 
  
−
== Early history ==
 
−
The modern fustanella probably originated in the Ottoman vilayet of [[Ioannina]], which comprised much of the region of [[Epirus]], today divided between Albania and [[Greece]] and inhabited primarily by ethnic [[Greeks]]<!-- Ottoman census of 1911 -->. The use of the garment was probably spread by [[klepht]]ic bands via Epirus into the rest of Greece during the [[18th century|18th]] and [[19th century|19th centuries]]. Similar garments exist as part of the folk costume as far north as Romania and as far east as Syria, with nationalists on every side claiming the garment to be an indigenous creation. Similarities to historical garments in literature and on art objects make these claims difficult to prove or disprove. 
 
  
−
One claim of an ancient link to the modern Fustanella involves an ancient statue dated from the 3rd century BCE in [[Kerameikon]] (a part of Athens to the northwest of the Acropolis) shown here [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Grave_shrine_from_the_Kerameikos_-_Aristonautes_as_warrior_-_ca._330-310_B.C._marble_h._2.91m.jpg]. Another claim involves a small figure from the 5th century BCE in Slovenia, evidenced [http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/7060/fusgvjetmar2nx.jpg here]. Another one was found in the outskirts of the Ancient Greek city of [[Epidamnus]] (modern Durrës, Albania, ca. 30 km W of Tirana) [http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/7510/fusgurdr6jz.jpg]. Another claim involves a very ancient statue dated to c. 500 BCE and wearing a fustanella-like garment.  The statue carved in a niche in the [[Cave of Archedemos the Nympholept]] [http://www.gianniskofinas.com/spilaia/nimfoliptou/nimfoliptou4.JPG][http://www.gianniskofinas.com/spilaia/nimfoliptou/nymfolyptou1.JPG], near Mount [[Hymettus]] in [[Athens]]. Archedemos, although living in Athens, came from the [[Spartan]] colony of [[Thera]]. This is why he carved himself wearing the [[dorian]] tunic. The Dorian tunic was also a garment of [[Kouretes]][http://www.fight-club.gr/images/stories//fotos/themata/kourites1.jpg].  
+
Findings of depictions of fustanellas in Slovenia , from eras in which Slovenia was part of Illyria, and inhabitants in several regions of the country wearing fustanellas in the past have lead many researchers and historians to the conclusion of an Illyrian origin of fustanella, with Albanians having inherited fustanella from Illyrians.<ref>[http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/7060/fusgvjetmar2nx.jpg Image]</ref><ref> Arthur Evans,  J. Wilkes, p.126, Ancient Illyria: an archaeological exploration ISBN 1845111672</ref> The fustanella is thought by some researchers to have evolved from the Roman [[toga]]. Many statues of Roman emperors depict them wearing knee-length pleated kilts<ref>Institute for Advanced Study (Princeton, N.J.), American School of Classical Studies at Athens, Hesperia</ref>. In colder regions, more folds were added.
  
−
===Possible Vlach origin===
+
Fustanella is thought to have been originally a southern Albanian outfit of Tosks, which was introduced in Greece, during the Ottoman Occupation.<ref>James P. Verinis, [http://muse.jhu.edu/demo/journal_of_modern_greek_studies/v023/23.1verinis.pdf "Spiridon Loues, the Modern ''Foustanéla'', and the Symbolic Power of ''Pallikariá'' at the 1896 Olympic Games"], ''Journal of Modern Greek Studies'' '''23''':1 (May 2005), pp. 139-175.</ref>
  
−
Another theory is that this type of garment was brought from the territoy comprising modern Romania, by the Aromanians. The ethymology could also be explained in this way: in Romanian, ''fuşte'' means "lance"/"wooden baton", from latin ''fustis''. A diminutive of it is ''fus'', meaning spindle. Hence, fusta means a fabric made using a ''fus''. The ''-ela'' termination is a typical Romanian ending of diminutives, in this case of the Romanian ''fusta'', meaning skirt. Also, the territory were the fustanella was first used in the southern Balkans, that is [[Epirus]].
+
The use of the garment was spread by Albanian bands via Epirus into Greece during the 18th and 19th centuries<ref>Samuel J. Barrows,The Isles and Shrines of Greece, 2005, [http://books.google.com/books?id=RoRoO8yKvckC&pg=PA159|pg. 159], ISBN 1417917482</ref><ref>A short history of modern greece, 1958, [http://books.google.com/books?id=UwwOAAAAQAAJ&pg=PA245|pg.245]</ref><ref>The Nomads of the Balkans, 1914, [http://books.google.com/books?id=_eoOAAAAQAAJ&pg=PA60|pg.60]</ref>. Similar garments exist as part of the folk costume as far north as Romania and as far east as Syria, with nationalists on every side claiming the garment to be an indigenous creation. Similarities to historical garments in literature and on art objects make these claims difficult to prove or disprove.
  
−
== Evolution ==
 
−
The garment is made from long strips of linen sewn together to make a pleated skirt. Some Greeks, such as general [[Theodoros Kolokotronis]] had almost four hundred pleats in their garments, one for each year of Turkish rule over Greece.
 
−
The style evolved over time. In the 18th and early 19th centuries, the skirts hung below the knees, and the hem of the garment was gathered together with garters and tucked into the boots to create a "bloused" effect. Later, during the [[History of Modern Greece##Reign of King Othon|Bavarian regency]], the skirts were shortened to create a sort of billowy pantaloon that stopped above the knee; this garment was worn with hose, and either buskins or decorative clogs.  This is the costume worn by the modern Greek evzones Presidential Guard.
 
  
−
While the image of warriors with frilly skirts tucked into their boots may seem impractical to a contemporary audience, it should be noted that modern paratroopers use a similar method to blouse their trousers over their jumpboots.  Lace was commonly worn on military uniforms in the west until well into the 19th century, and gold braid and other adornments still serve as markers of high rank in formal military uniforms. Fustanella were very labor-intensive and thus costly, which made them a status garment that advertised the wealth and importance of the wearer. Western observers of the Greek [[War of Independence]] noted the great pride which the klephts took in their foustanella, and how they competed to outdo each other in the sumptuousness of their costume.
+
One claim of an ancient link to the modern fustanella involves an ancient statue found in the outskirts of the ancient Greek colony of [[Epidamnus]] in Illyria(modern Durrës, Albania). The region surrounding Epidamnus was inhabited by the Illyrian tribe of the [[Taulanti]]. .<ref>[http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/7510/fusgurdr6jz.jpg Image]</ref> Yet another claim involves the statue carved in a niche in the [[Cave of Archedemos the Nympholept]], near Mount [[Hymettus]] in [[Athens]], which statue wears a fustanella-like garment and has been dated to c. 500 BCE. Archedemos, although living in Athens, came from the [[Sparta]]n colony of [[Thera]]. This is why he carved himself wearing the [[Dorians|Dorian]] [[tunic]]. The origin of the Dorians is most likely to be found in the ancient Illyrian-Epirote regions.<ref>Paul Cartledge, Sparta and Lakonia: a regional history [http://books.google.com/books?id=uo4oy1IMQokC&pg=PA65&dq=dorians&as_brr=3&hl=PPA80,M1#PPA80,M1|pg.80] ISBN 0415262763</ref> The Dorian tunic was also a garment of [[Kouretes]]. Another object which is related to the fustanella was found in Albania in the modern [[Korytsa|Korçë]] region, which was inhabited by [[Illyrian]] tribes<ref>http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/5585/fusgvarrikr3um.jpg</ref><ref>John Wilkes, The Illyrians, pg.45-47, ISBN 0631198075</ref>.
  
−
== Today ==
+
==Evolution==
−
Today fustanella are part of traditional Albanian and Greek dresses, worn mainly by ceremonial Greek military units and folk dancers.
 
  
−
Incidentally, the correct Greek plural is ''foustanelles'' (φουστανέλλες) but as with the (semi-correct) ''foustanellas'', it is rarely employed by native English speakers.
 
  
−
== Name in various languages ==
+
The garment is made from long strips of linen sewn together to make a pleated [[skirt]]. Some Greeks, such as general [[Theodoros Kolokotronis]] had almost four hundred pleats in their garments, one for each year of [[Ottoman Empire|Turkish]] rule over Greece. The style evolved over time. In the 18th and early 19th centuries, the skirts hung below the knees, and the hem of the garment was gathered together with garters and tucked into the boots to create a "bloused" effect. Later, during the [[History of Modern Greece##Reign of King Othon|Bavarian regency]], the skirts were shortened to create a sort of billowy [[trousers|pantaloon]] that stopped above the knee; this garment was worn with hose, and either buskins or decorative clogs.  This is the costume worn by the modern Greek [[Evzones]], the Presidential Guard.
 +
 
 +
While the image of warriors with frilly skirts tucked into their boots may seem impractical to a contemporary audience, it should be noted that modern paratroopers use a similar method to blouse their trousers over their jumpboots. Lace was commonly worn on military uniforms in the west until well into the 19th century, and gold braid and other adornments still serve as markers of high rank in formal military uniforms. Fustanella were very labor-intensive and thus costly, which made them a status garment that advertised the wealth and importance of the wearer.  Western observers of the [[Greek War of Independence]] noted the great pride which the klephts and [[armatoloi]] took in their foustanella, and how they competed to outdo each other in the sumptuousness of their costume.
 +
 
 +
==Etymology==
 +
The word derives from Italian ''fustagno'' 'fustian' + ''-ella'' (diminutive), the fabric from which the earliest kilts were made. This in turn derives from [[Medieval Latin]] ''fūstāneum'', perhaps a diminutive form of ''fustis'', "wooden baton".  Other authors consider this a calque of [[Greek language|Greek]] ''xylino'' lit. 'wooden' ''i.e.'' 'cotton'<ref>Institute of Modern Greek Studies (Thessaloniki), Λεξικό της Κοινής Νεοελληνικής, 1998 ISBN 960-231-085-5</ref>; others speculate that it is derived from [[Fostat]], a suburb of [[Cairo]] where cloth was manufactured.<ref>[[Oxford English Dictionary]]; Babiniotis, Λεξικό της Νέας Ελληνικής Γλώσσας.</ref> The Greek plural is ''foustanelles'' (φουστανέλλες) but as with the (semi-correct) ''foustanellas'', it is rarely employed by native English speakers.
 +
===Name in various languages===
 +
 
 
Native terms for "skirt" and "dress" included for comparison:
 
Native terms for "skirt" and "dress" included for comparison:
 
{|id="toc" align="center"
 
{|id="toc" align="center"
Line 40: Line 39:
 
|-
 
|-
 
|Aromanian
 
|Aromanian
−
|  
+
| fustanelã<br/>
−
|  
+
| fustã<br>
−
|-
+
| fustanã<br>
−
|Arvanitic
 
−
|
 
−
|
 
−
|
 
 
|-
 
|-
 
|Bulgarian
 
|Bulgarian
Line 62: Line 57:
 
|gonna
 
|gonna
 
|  
 
|  
 +
|-
 +
|Slavo-Macedonian
 +
| фустанела<br/>(fustanela)
 +
| фустан<br/>(fustan)
 +
|
 
|-
 
|-
 
|Megleno-Romanian
 
|Megleno-Romanian
Line 71: Line 71:
 
|fustanelă
 
|fustanelă
 
|fustă
 
|fustă
−
|  
+
|
 +
|-
 +
|Turkish
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|fistan
 
|}
 
|}
  
−
== External link ==
+
==Notes==
−
*[http://library.thinkquest.org/04oct/01181/the_new_state.htm The fustanella in Greece]
+
<references/>
 +
 
 +
==External links==
 +
*[http://www.albmuzika.com/albanian_folk_costumes.htm Albanian Folk Costumes]
 +
*[http://library.thinkquest.org/04oct/01181/the_new_state.htm The Fustanella in Greece]
  
 
{{Credit wikipedia}}
 
{{Credit wikipedia}}
 +
  
 
[[Category:Greek clothing]]
 
[[Category:Greek clothing]]
 +
[[Category:Skirts]]

Latest revision as of 07:05, June 17, 2009

Greek Fustanelles - (Right) - the Makedonomahi, which is from Macedonia, the northernmost region of Greece. (Left) - The Fustanella (Tsolias) Prevailed in the urban centers of Moreas (Peloponnese) and Roumeli (Central Greece).

Fustanella (for spelling in various languages, see chart below) is a traditional skirt-like garment worn by men in the Balkans. In modern times, the fustanella is part of traditional Albanian and Greeks dresses, worn mainly by ceremonial Greek military units and Albanian folk dancers.

History

Findings of depictions of fustanellas in Slovenia , from eras in which Slovenia was part of Illyria, and inhabitants in several regions of the country wearing fustanellas in the past have lead many researchers and historians to the conclusion of an Illyrian origin of fustanella, with Albanians having inherited fustanella from Illyrians.[1][2] The fustanella is thought by some researchers to have evolved from the Roman toga. Many statues of Roman emperors depict them wearing knee-length pleated kilts[3]. In colder regions, more folds were added.

Fustanella is thought to have been originally a southern Albanian outfit of Tosks, which was introduced in Greece, during the Ottoman Occupation.[4]

The use of the garment was spread by Albanian bands via Epirus into Greece during the 18th and 19th centuries[5][6][7]. Similar garments exist as part of the folk costume as far north as Romania and as far east as Syria, with nationalists on every side claiming the garment to be an indigenous creation. Similarities to historical garments in literature and on art objects make these claims difficult to prove or disprove.


One claim of an ancient link to the modern fustanella involves an ancient statue found in the outskirts of the ancient Greek colony of Epidamnus in Illyria(modern Durrës, Albania). The region surrounding Epidamnus was inhabited by the Illyrian tribe of the Taulanti. .[8] Yet another claim involves the statue carved in a niche in the Cave of Archedemos the Nympholept, near Mount Hymettus in Athens, which statue wears a fustanella-like garment and has been dated to c. 500 BCE. Archedemos, although living in Athens, came from the Spartan colony of Thera. This is why he carved himself wearing the Dorian tunic. The origin of the Dorians is most likely to be found in the ancient Illyrian-Epirote regions.[9] The Dorian tunic was also a garment of Kouretes. Another object which is related to the fustanella was found in Albania in the modern Korçë region, which was inhabited by Illyrian tribes[10][11].

Evolution

The garment is made from long strips of linen sewn together to make a pleated skirt. Some Greeks, such as general Theodoros Kolokotronis had almost four hundred pleats in their garments, one for each year of Turkish rule over Greece. The style evolved over time. In the 18th and early 19th centuries, the skirts hung below the knees, and the hem of the garment was gathered together with garters and tucked into the boots to create a "bloused" effect. Later, during the Bavarian regency, the skirts were shortened to create a sort of billowy pantaloon that stopped above the knee; this garment was worn with hose, and either buskins or decorative clogs. This is the costume worn by the modern Greek Evzones, the Presidential Guard.

While the image of warriors with frilly skirts tucked into their boots may seem impractical to a contemporary audience, it should be noted that modern paratroopers use a similar method to blouse their trousers over their jumpboots. Lace was commonly worn on military uniforms in the west until well into the 19th century, and gold braid and other adornments still serve as markers of high rank in formal military uniforms. Fustanella were very labor-intensive and thus costly, which made them a status garment that advertised the wealth and importance of the wearer. Western observers of the Greek War of Independence noted the great pride which the klephts and armatoloi took in their foustanella, and how they competed to outdo each other in the sumptuousness of their costume.

Etymology

The word derives from Italian fustagno 'fustian' + -ella (diminutive), the fabric from which the earliest kilts were made. This in turn derives from Medieval Latin fūstāneum, perhaps a diminutive form of fustis, "wooden baton". Other authors consider this a calque of Greek xylino lit. 'wooden' i.e. 'cotton'[12]; others speculate that it is derived from Fostat, a suburb of Cairo where cloth was manufactured.[13] The Greek plural is foustanelles (φουστανέλλες) but as with the (semi-correct) foustanellas, it is rarely employed by native English speakers.

Name in various languages

Native terms for "skirt" and "dress" included for comparison:

Language Kilt/short skirt Skirt Dress
Albanian fustanellë/fustanella fustan
Aromanian fustanelã
 fustã
 fustanã
Bulgarian фустанела
(fustanela) 		фуста
(fusta)
Greek φουστανέλλα
(foustanélla) 		φούστα
(foústa) 		φουστάνι
(foustáni)
Italian fustanella gonna
Slavo-Macedonian фустанела
(fustanela) 		фустан
(fustan)
Megleno-Romanian fustan fustan
Romanian fustanelă fustă
Turkish fistan

Notes

  1. ↑ Image
  2. ↑ Arthur Evans, J. Wilkes, p.126, Ancient Illyria: an archaeological exploration ISBN 1845111672
  3. ↑ Institute for Advanced Study (Princeton, N.J.), American School of Classical Studies at Athens, Hesperia
  4. ↑ James P. Verinis, "Spiridon Loues, the Modern Foustanéla, and the Symbolic Power of Pallikariá at the 1896 Olympic Games", Journal of Modern Greek Studies 23:1 (May 2005), pp. 139-175.
  5. ↑ Samuel J. Barrows,The Isles and Shrines of Greece, 2005, 159, ISBN 1417917482
  6. ↑ A short history of modern greece, 1958, [1]
  7. ↑ The Nomads of the Balkans, 1914, [2]
  8. ↑ Image
  9. ↑ Paul Cartledge, Sparta and Lakonia: a regional history [3] ISBN 0415262763
  10. ↑ http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/5585/fusgvarrikr3um.jpg
  11. ↑ John Wilkes, The Illyrians, pg.45-47, ISBN 0631198075
  12. ↑ Institute of Modern Greek Studies (Thessaloniki), Λεξικό της Κοινής Νεοελληνικής, 1998 ISBN 960-231-085-5
  13. ↑ Oxford English Dictionary; Babiniotis, Λεξικό της Νέας Ελληνικής Γλώσσας.

External links

A portion of content for this article is credited to Wikipedia. Content under GNU Free Documentation License(GFDL)

Retrieved from "https://wiki.phantis.com/index.php?title=Fustanella&oldid=39051"